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Thanks for contacting us, so sorry to hear of the issue here. When this happened were you able to contact us and go over the warranty? The camp stove has a 1 year manufacturer warranty on it. You do need cold water which circulates to cool the teg chip, and create the electricity. It does state to charge the unit with the supplied wall outlet adapter for the first use to ensure the battery has some juice. Were you able to charge the battery on a wall outlet before the first use as outlined in the manual? If the unit is started with a dead battery or close to dead, it can fry the teg chip. If you were not able to call in when this happened to cover warranty procedure the unit would now be past the 1 year manufacturer warranty. If this is the case and you would like a replacement we would be happy to offer you a 50% discount on a new one given the circumstance. Just let us know, happy to help how we can. Thanks.

Thanks so much for the message. Checking in with our Harman tech team to see what suggestions we have for you on next steps. We will follow up ASAP. Much Appreciated!

Thank you. Appreciate it.

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 Thanks for your patience. Let's double check the burnpot holes to make sure all are open/clear. Oftentimes carbon buildup can form blocking a key row of holes. Keep in mind, it's the super heated air passing by the igniter that rushes through those burnpot holes igniting the pellets. A good light, mirror, and small precision screwdriver will be very helpful tools to make sure they are all open and clear. Below I have a link to a Harman super scraper for the burnpot just for reference. If that all seems good, let's check the position of the igniter cradle and mount. Keep us posted, happy to hget you back to 100%! Thanks. pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-eco-choice-burnpot-firepot-grate-scraper-tool-aftermarket/

Thanx for getting back to me. I did do a thourough check of the burn pot, everything looked good, I even removed the igniter to make sure it was correctly positioned in cradle, it was. Put everything back, and ran a test run and now it works! I'm a little confused as to why it is working now as opposed to earlier.....but you must have some magic or something...lol. Thank you for all your help and these awesome do it yourself videos! I do plan on purchasing some tools from you in the near future like that scraper and a vacuum. Thanx again!

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 That's good news! I'm thinking it had to be just something slightly off with the igniter and cradle cage. So glad we could help and everything is up and running again. Any future questions please let us know! Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. First put a jumper on the thermostat block to ensure it's getting full connection there even though the call light is on. Simply pull out the thermostat wires and place a large staple where the wires were, secure down tight to make a solid connection. Second, the combustion blower has to run before anything else will happen - Can you power the blower directly and see if it works? Video below on how to create a test cord for performing this. If there is no change when jumping the thermostat and if the combustion blower is good testing it to direct power, than that would be a pretty strong indication that the board/control box is bad. Keep us posted, happy to help get you back up and running again. ruclips.net/video/rlmiCYI2WPk/видео.htmlsi=TQoxnTMnXj9eRXR9 Thanks,

Thanks. Yeah, depending on the stove manufacturer, model, and year manufactured, there can be variances with the glass gasket in type, size, and installation. Always important to pay close attention to the gasket you are replacing and to reference the owners manual for the replacement gasket type. Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks Bro!

Thanks JP! Yeah, good note, appreciate that. Any questions or needs down the line just let us know. Thanks.

We Agree! The camp stove can run on wood, pellets or charcoal. Thank you for the feedback and if you have any questions please let us know.

Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we wouldn't have information regarding the dipswitch settings of an early board like that, we only have the outlines for the replacement control boards. Sorry we couldn't be of assistance here.

We wouldn't be familiar with propane oven gaskets or installation. If you can find a manual online for your model that can be a good place to start to find the right replacement part number. If you can't find any installation advice or videos pay close attention to how the old gasket is installed and mimic that for the replacement. Hope that helps. Thanks.

@@EarthSense Thank you

@@cbzombiequeen58 You're most welcome!

Thanks for contacting us. If your fuse is popping when you plug the unit in we have a direct electrical short somewhere. Does it happen when you plug it in and the dial is set to off, or does it happen when you turn the dial to Stove Temp/Room Temp? That will be helpful as we determine the culprit here. Let's inspect every wire in the stove starting with the combustion blower and Igniter. Most likely we have a bare wire somewhere touching metal and creating this short. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Thanks Bill! Glad the video was informative and that is a great tip! Really appreciated! Any questions or needs down the road just let us know. Thanks!

Hey Jim, I just left a comment on the other post for you. Thanks for confirming you have replaced the control box. I think we either have an issue with the thermostat terminal block or we have an issue with the Junction Box wiring harness where the control box slides into. See the other comment I left and keep us posted. Happy to help. Thanks.

So glad to hear it was helpful, thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. There is no power supply to the pressure switch. As the diaphragm opens and closes with pressure or vacuum it simply creates or breaks the circuit to the auger feed motor. I saw your second message and will respond to that as well. Thanks.

@@EarthSense there are two wires connected to the pressure switch when there is pressure it should connect the two wires completing the circuit. Where does the power come from for that wire? I know out of the brain box but something Elsa makes that determination? I have no power at the vac. Switch

@@JimHaskell-es8pe Hey Jim, the wires that run to the pressure switch will go into the junction box wire harness assembly where your control box plugs into. Unless the wire was loose inside the junction box, the control board/brain box is providing the electrical signals. We have run across issues before with the junction box, although not that common and it usually has to do with the receiving end for the control box.

I have replaced the control box and still the same no power

Thanks for the message. Let's take a close look at the thermostat terminal where your thermostat wires go into. Get a good light and inspect all wiring and connections. If possible, try an alternate low millivolt thermostat. You can also jumper the thermostat terminal by placing a paperclip or large staple between the two thermostat wire connection points. Let us know if you're call light comes on when you jumper that. Happy to help get you back up and running. Thanks.

@@EarthSense that does nothing. Ther is only like 3 volts at the thermostat wires. Same where they come out of the box. The call light still does not come on.

Yes I did jump the thermostat wires also.

@@JimHaskell-es8pe Thanks for the message back. Let me check in with our tech team and circle back around to you Jim. Be in touch soon.

@@EarthSense thank you.

Thanks for contacting us. If you are able to, take the board to a local dealer and see if they can test it for you. It sounds like it could be an issue with the control box. Additionally, inspect your thermocouple. Check the wiring connections and pull off the ceramic cover to ensure the wires are soldered at the end. Keep us posted, happy to help!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? If it is a Quadra-Fire, we would want to take a closer look at the thermocouple. Is there any blinking lights on the control box?

Glad the video was helpful. Yeah the camp stove is pretty cool - if you have any other questions on it just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. If it is a smoke smell that you are experiencing we have a vent pipe leak somewhere. All 3" or 4" PL pellet vent has to be siliconed at every pipe joint to prevent smoke/carbon monoxide from coming out into the home. You should be able to pick up a handheld CO meter to check all of the venting connections to determine where the vent pipe is leaking and then use high temperature silicone to seal everything up. There should be no smoke smell during operation or start-up. Yes, typically we want to avoid putting a screen on the outside vent pipe as it can restrict the exhaust and create issues. There's several different types of end caps if you are in a high wind area. For pellets you will notice a difference in heat output, cleanliness, and ash content between different pellet fuels, but again if you are smelling smoke at all then we need to inspect the exhaust vent pipe connections and connection to the exhaust hub on the stove. Feel free to email us images of your venting configuration for better assistance to info@pellethead.com. Keep us posted. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Good morning Taylor. Thanks for the information, I did seal up the seams with aluminum tape. I'll send some pictures over with what it looks like and what I have done. Have a great day !

​@@raymondhoagland4976 Good Morning Raymond! The images you sent were forwarded over to me and I have reviewed. Overall venting configuration looks good - Looks like there is proper clearance on the outside to both the window and the deck above. Couple Notes: The aluminum tape can be good for certain applications, however for PL vent pipe seams and connections we generally will still see smoke leakage if there is just aluminum tape over the connections. We would suggest peeling the tape off and using a high temperature silicone sealant around every seam and connection, where the vent goes through the wall thimble on both the inside and outside as well as where the pipe connects to the cast iron exhaust hub on the unit. If you can get your hands on a handheld CO meter, this will be a great tool to identify areas in the venting where there may be leaks. For our installs and inspections for self installs we will cover up 1/3 of the end cap outside with aluminum tape so that more pressure is put on the venting seals/seams. Upon startup while the stove is igniting/smoking is when we use the CO meter to detect an areas that are leaking and apply additional silicone. Once we are getting zero readings on the meter then we remove the tape on the outside for proper air flow. Additionally I see that you have a 90 degree elbow coming out from the stove to go vertical. This is acceptable, however you will find that ash will accumulate much quicker in the elbow creating air restriction over time that will affect the stoves performance. Typically in an install like this we would use a TEE vent pipe with a bottom cleanout cap from the stove to go vertically. Less restriction and you don't have to pull the pipe off the stove to get the ash out like you would need to do with the 90 degree elbow. How does your fire look during operation? Is it crisp and torchy or is it lazy in any way? Here are some reference Links. High Temp Silicone: pellethead.com/product/nuflex-302-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-adhesive-10-2-oz/ CO Meter Option: www.walmart.com/ip/SMART-SENSOR-Handheld-Carbon-Monoxide-Meter-Portable-CO-Gas-Leak-Detector-High-Precision-CO-Detector-Gas-Analyzer-CO-Gas-Monitor-Tester-1000ppm/268208415?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101223618 Venting TEE Example: www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-PelletVent-3-in-Tee-with-Clean-Out-Cap-3PVL-T/100679714?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_020_FIRE-NA-MULTI-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX_SHP&gad_source=1 Keep us posted, happy to help!

@@EarthSense Thanks so much for the information Taylor. Normally on start up I would check for leakage with a light and then would use the aluminum tape to seal the areas. I have some high temperature silicone sealant and will look into getting a CO meter and changing out the elbow to a TEE vent for easier clean out. Thank you for all the tips and links. I've cleaned the stove quite a few times and am learning on the fly, the flame looks good when fired up. When running the stove do you think it would be wise to run the window fan ? Thanks again for all of your help, I'll be making the necessary changes before fall sets in next year and let you know how things go.

@@raymondhoagland4976 You're most welcome Raymond! Glad the flame is looking nice and crisp - that's what we want. Another great cleaning tip that we perform for folks in the off-season is using a leafblower vac on the outside exhaust vent. With the stove off and cool we put the sucking part on the outside and it does a great job pulling out accumulated ash that is difficult to get to in the vent pipe, and combustion pathways. If you need any operation or cleaning manual for the P43 just let me know and we will get that over to you via email. As far as the window fan goes, that's something to analyze a bit more. I believe you put that in because of the smoke smell. Again, as we get everything sealed up tight you will no longer have any smell inside the house during start-up or operation unless power is lost during operation. Some folks will use different fans to help circulate the heat in the area which can work well, but if your current window fan is pulling air from the room and distributing it outside then I would say you can do away with that once you reconfigure and seal the venting up with the silicone. Always here and happy to help, keep us posted!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? The pressure switch will shut off power to the auger motor if it is tripped or faulty or if you remove the hose or one of the electrical connections. Sounds like your switch is working exactly as it is supposed to. Generally if the auger motor is running continously and not cycling, it's an issue with the control board, but first let us know your stove make and model and we can better assist with that info. Thanks,

Thanks for contacting us. It's normal for the combustion fan to run for an hour or so after shutdown with a Harman, however if it continues to run while the stove is cold, then most likely we would have an ESP probe issue or a potential control board issue. I would start by cleaning the ESP probe and see if anythig changes. If not, then I would recommend replacing the ESP probe first. If you do need to replace, pay attention to the wire color of the probe to ensure you get the correct replacement. Reference: RED: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-red-wire/ BLACK: pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-thermistor-esp-probe-black-wire/ Keep us posted, happy to help!

So glad to hear that! If you have any needs or questions down the road just let us know, thanks!

Glad to hear it was helpful! If you need anything else just let us know.

Thanks for contacting us. We have worked with many different pellet stoves over our 30 years+ in business. There are many factors that come into play when deciding which stove is best for your application and needs. The Freedom PS21 is now in it's second year and has quickly become one of our flagship stoves. Overwhelmingly customer reviews have been positive, however no matter how good the product you will always have some negative reviews. We pride ourselves on offering exceptional customer service and providing products that we stand by and personally use. It's been our motto for over 30 years now. As far as fuel usage goes, the Freedom will burn approx. 1.2 lbs/per hour on the lowest heat setting and approx. 4lbs per hour on the highest heat setting. Determining on how many pellets the stove will use on a thermostat setting greatly depends on the temperature outside, temperature set for inside, type of pellet fuel being used, and how well insulated the area/home is along with quality of the windows and doors. Most folks find that heating a well insulated area of 1200-1500 sq ft in normal/average winter weather at a 70 degree temp will use approx 40lbs of pellets per day/24hrs. Again, lots of variables there and this would be the case for any pellet stove. Feel free to call in and discuss with us your needs, heating situation, features you are looking for etc.. and our staff can help provide some further info and guide you in the right direction. You can reach us at 800-236-6647 if you would like. Thanks so much for your message.

Thanks so much, greatly appreciated! I do think this will help folks getting to know the ins and outs of AC vs DC battery backup options. Thanks so much for your comment!

Thanks for contacting us. The thermocouple comes into play once the fire is lit, acting as a 'proof of fire' so the unit can go into normal operation from start-up. If the stove doesn't feed or light on start-up it would be normal to see the blinking amber lights indicating thermocouple temp was not reached. What model Quadrafire do you have? Most units have a couple safety switches in-line with the auger motor - if tripped or faulty the auger motor won't work. The auger motor itself can be tested as well to see if the issue is with the motor itself. Check the simple things first - Clean out any accumulated ash in the stove, exhaust blower, and venting. Make sure your door gaskets are sealing tight. Keep us posted, happy to help.

@@EarthSense Thanks for responding. I had just cleaned the stove. I found one of the thermo couple wires was loose. I tightened it up,rechecked all of the doors and gaskets and it fired right up. Thanks again

@@spankster54 That's great to hear! Thanks for the follow up and so glad the stove is up and running correctly again!

Thanks for the message. Definitely check the tubing to make sure there are no holes/splits/cracks, etc.. Let's make sure the hose connection is tight on both ends. From there we need to look at any area in stove where we may have air loss or air blockage. Glad you have the stove and venting cleaned well. Check: 1. Door, glass, hopper lid gasket seals - Ensure seals are tight all the way around 2. Check your air inlet to the burnpot - If there's a flapper door on the air intake make sure it's not stuck closed 3. Check your combustion blower voltage. Should be near line voltage during startup to lock in the vacuum switch Keep us posted, happy to help.

I replaced the exhaust fan after finding the motor hot and the fan not always running. The Harman pellet stove in now working. Thank you very much for the advice. Bruce Zeigler

@@brucezeigler59 That's great to hear Bruce! So glad you found the root problem and are back up and running again. Any future questions please let us know. Thanks!

Yeah, definitely try out some other things in the oven. You can feed less fuel to keep the temperature at a lower range if desired. I've cooked bread, calzones, steak, chicken, veggies, even apples cored out with Cinnamon and sugar. Keep us posted with what you try next!

Sorry to hear of all the troubles you've had with the 1200. I'm glad our videos have helped and I hope everything will be solid for awhile once you replace the element. Yeah, that's a good point on the igniter. If it's not getting hot at all generally it's the element. I always encourage folks to check the electrical connectors and lead wire electrical as well to ensure power is coming through from the control box. If you are only burning pellets in your 1200 then the 300 watt is what we would recommend. If you are burning a mixture of any other types of biomass fuel such as corn, then we would recommend the 380 watt. Any other questions let us know. Always happy to help.

​@@EarthSense Thanks again for the vid, my new element showed up and it's fixed. Old one was shorted and showing 0 ohms on the meter. Just glad it didn't take the main board / fuse with it. I think I will install a fuse inline on this new igniter just to add another layer of safety for the control board.

@@Stormyism Thanks for following up! Yeah, lucky the shorted element didn't blow out the board as that is known to happen. Glad the new igniter is in and working properly. There are other stoves that do use an in-line fuse with the igniter element, not sure why Quad never did that as it does add an extra layer of safety for the control board in the event of a short. Any future questions let us know, always here and happy to help how we can. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. I would suggest doing some timing tests during startup. It will be important to determine if there are variables during the initial feed/start-up sequence. The start-up sequence is only controlled by the control box. If there are variables to how much time the stove is feeding during start-up, we would suggest getting the control box tested by a local dealer. Oftentimes it can appear that too many pellets are coming in during start-up, but in reality it is a loss of air flow that it causing the heavy smoke and high flame during startup. If the start-up/feed timing is always the same, then I would say we have an air flow issue and would have you check the following: 1. Burnpot holes open and clear 2. Burnpot bottom porkchop sealing tight and opening and closing correctly. 3. Door Gasket and Ash Door Gasket sealing tight 4. All excess ash cleaned from the stove, ash traps, and venting. 5. Nothing blocking the air intake to the burnpot 6. Inspecting the function of the combustion blower/exhaust fan. Should be running near line voltage during start-up. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Thanks for contacting us. If you are not seeing the GMG WiFi network when searching for available WiFi networks, then the control board must not be giving out a WiFi signal. First let's make sure the WiFi antenna is installed properly and the receiver where you attach the antenna is properly connected to the board. Next, With the grill unplugged, pull out the control board and inspect the circuitry on the backside. There is a small WiFi receiver probe connected, let's make sure that is in tact. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Thanks for contacting us, I did not see your message until today, our apologies. First off, I would suggest trying a different brand of pellets to see if there is a difference. Unless there is an accumulation of fines in the bag, you really should just see whole pellets dropping in, not crumbs of pellets. See if you can find another brand, buy maybe 5 bags and do a test to see if there is a difference. Most of our customers find that Pine and Fir pellets have the best heat output and lowest ash content. From there I would say it may be helpful to pull out the auger assembly. Overtime, there can be issues with the flights on the auger shaft. Inspect the shaft closely and see if anything is abnormal. We want it to be delivering pellets, not crushing them in the process of feeding. If your thermocouple is currently working fine I would see no reason to replace it. The thermocouple simply allows the unit to go from start-up into normal operation. For the blower motor, are you referring to the room air blower or the combustion/exhaust blower? Happy to send recommended suggestions for your Castile. Inside of the hopper you should also see a pull slide that you can pull up or push down to allow more or less pellet fuel to enter the auger motor shaft. Play with that a bit as well. Keep us posted, happy to help!

I changed the pellets and seems to be burning better. I noticed the the glass door does not have the seal on the bottom of the door. Should I have a seal there?@@EarthSense

@@RS-zz3wb Thanks for the message back, glad to hear the new pellet fuel is burning better. You will notice a really big difference between pellet fuels on heat output, flame size, ash, and cleanliness of the glass and burnpot. Always suggest to try a few different brands and analyze the performance in the stove. Your 2008 Castile should have a tadpole style gasket that seals the door and glass. Quadra-Fire leaves off the bottom tadpole portion for an 'air-wash' designed to bring in a small amount of room air across the glass to help keep it clean. The tape portion of the gasket should still be in tact securing the glass to the door frame, however it is normal to have the gap at the bottom of the door for the 'Air-Wash'. In proper operation, the Quadra-Fire Castile should have a very torchy burning fire - part of the design with the cylindrical firepot. Generally speaking on Low, the fire is in the burnpot, medium up to the rim, sometimes 1-3" over the rim, on high 3-6" above the firepot rim. Again, you will notice a difference in pellet fuel and where you have the hopper slide set. As the unit accumulates ash build-up you will start to notice a larger more lazy fire which is a good indication to do a thorough clean on the stove and vent. If you feel there is too much air coming to the fire, let's check your combustion blower motor and the label specs. Just in the event that motor was replaced with an aftermarket it's good to make sure it is the correct CFM motor; the Castile should be 70 CFM. Here is the OEM and aftermarket options for reference. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-heatilator-pleasant-hearth-pelpro-exhaust-combustion-motor-blower-fan-oem/ Keep us posted, happy to help!

You're most welcome! Glad it was helpful. If you need any other assistance just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. Yes, definitely more challenging replacing the burnpot in the unit vs the demonstration for the video here. You should not have to pull out the burnpot when replacing the igniter element - I'll include a video below on Harman Igniter changeout. Additionally, in the coldest part of the season you can flip the igniter toggle to manual so the unit does not cycle on and off as frequent which should conserve the igniter element longer. If you need any assistance just let us know. ruclips.net/video/i7n1SSgCPMc/видео.htmlsi=NlTJzUGIK6spMUmJ

@@EarthSense no you don’t need to pull the burn pot out to replace the igniter but the burn pot is sideways in the chamber leaving no space to do it lol

@@rickryan5527 Ok, well if you need any help or tips just let us know. Thanks.

Thanks for the message, we can certainly add a wire harness install to our list of upcoming videos. The wiring diagram should be clear on which wire connects to which component. If you need additional diagrams just let us know your model and I will see if we have some additional reference materials that may be helpful for you. Thanks.

I'm not understanding your message here. Let us know if you have questions or need assistance. Thanks.

How do you adjust pellet drop rate. Drops too much pellets when turning stove on. Overflow spills into ash tray and ignites. Manual instructions are somewhat confusing

Ps my stove is independence ps21

@@richardbuckles5098 Thanks for the message Richard. Let me check with the tech team on this and we'll follow up ASAP.

@@richardbuckles5098 Hey Richard, so to adjust the start-up feed rate we will need to go into the technical mode of the control board which is password protected. Please call in directly to us at 800-236-6647 and ask for Chad C. He will guide you through the process of making that adjustment. Keep us posted, we'll make sure everything is 100%. Thank you!

Thanks for contacting us. You will bend the tabs up to release the glass with gasket. Once the gasket is replaced and the glass is placed back in the door frame, you will bend those tabs back down to secure the glass in the door frame. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for the message. Generally there will not be too much smell from the silicone during first fire. And yes, it is ok if the silicone is showing a bit around the gasket. Try to let set up for a minimum of 1 hour, if possible let set for 24 hours before closing the door and turning the unit back on. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing!! You if you have any questions or need anything down the line just let us know. Thanks!

Absolutely! Glad it was helpful. Any other questions we are always here. Thanks!

You're Most Welcome! Yes, tabs are far easier than the rods. Try to only bend the tabs over once to release the old gasket and bend them back down once to secure the new gasket. The more the tabs are bent/moved back and forth, the less security they provide. Any questions as you go along just let us know. Always happy to help!

Thanks for contacting us. We don't have too much service experience with the New England Stove Works line of pellet stoves and their error codes. Doing a quick search I found a site that says an Error code 2 means that the system has failed to start. A clogged ignitor, faulty ignitor position, or bad fire sensor can be the reason behind this error code. A bad exhaust blower or damp pellets can be the reason why your pellet stove is not starting up as well. - Here's a video to test your igniter element ohms. ruclips.net/video/z4wmCc96rVI/видео.htmlsi=neWZ_qee8Gdtz5zT - Make sure the stove and venting are cleaned thoroughly including the burnpot and burnpot placement. - Inspect the operation of your combustion/exhaust blower. Happy to help.

Thanks John! Really appreciate your words. There's always a lot of factors that play into pellet selection and different stove models perform differently as well based on the style of the feed system and air flow. I think it's great if one can try 5 bags of a few different kinds - make notes on heat, ash, burnpot build-up, glass cleanliness, etc.. clean out the stove and test the next 5 bags. Over 85% of our customers now do purchase softwood pellets and find that is the best option for them. Again, really appreciate your comment and insight John, thank you!